Fitting a Saddle to your Horse--Things to Consider
Getting the right saddle fit can be a tough process. If horses could only talk, this would be much easier!! One problem is that most horses are very tolerant and stoic...they suffer in silence. We only know there is an issue when we see white hairs or spots developing because of pressure points--and then it may be the saddle...or it may not! Then there are the horses that let their feeling be known on EVERY subject...it's hard to sort out if there is a saddle problem...or a fear issue or dominance issue.
Some folks want a new saddle thinking it will be an "easy fix" for all their issues with their horse....and it is not that simple. When a new saddle is the answer to the problem, usually the horse or mule is fairly well behaved with everything else--trailering, farrier work, groundwork, etc. If your horse or mule has behavior issues when a saddle is not even involved--then the saddle may not be the issue and isn't the place to start. It is the equine/human relationship that needs to be examined first.
We have to realize too that God designed horses...he didn't design saddles! It doesn't matter how well fitting a saddle may be...if your horse does a lot of hard work under saddle, he is going to be sore! Especially if he doesn't do it on a daily basis. If you sit behind a desk all week, then go out and ride 4-5 hours in the mountains on the weekends, you're going to be sore and develop some pressure points yourself. If your horse hangs out in the pasture all week, then carries you on that 4-5 hour mountain weekend ride...he's going to have some sore spots too!! So, just remember to have reasonable expectations when you are evaluating your saddle fit.
What if ...Saddle Fit is Not the issue? Other things you need to consider:
1. Saddle position: Most saddle trees (and definitely our Mountain Horse saddle trees) are designed to sit behind the horse's shoulder blade. That's why, when you do the fitting, we ask you to sit the tree 2 fingers back from the shoulder blade when your horse is standing squarely on the ground. That's where the TREE is designed to sit so that it does not impede your horse's shoulder motion. Sitting it too far forward will result in poor saddle fit and an uncomfortable fit for your horse. Notice that I emphasize TREE, not saddle. The tree should sit behind the shoulder blade, the leather and fleece on the saddle should extend over the shoulder. If you put the entire saddle behind the shoulder blade, that is too far back-- and the front of the saddle skirting will dig into the shoulder and usually the saddle will pop up in the rear. There is usually 3-4 inches of leather and fleece in front of the tree. (Interestingly, most mule riders automatically sit the tree in the right place...most horse riders put it too far forward!)
2. Rigging and/or cinch: Here's a general rule of thumb. If you go with a rigging that is hung from the tree (like our Go Light saddles or the Deluxe Trail Saddle
) - that type of rigging is meant to be used with a rear cinch. The inskirt riggings in a 7/8's or 3/4's position (most of our saddles), the inskirt 3 way rigging (see gaited saddles MHG1 and MHG3) or centerfire riggings can be used without a rear cinch because they put the cinch down and back further. It's all about keeping the weight distribution as even as possible when the horse is cinched up. (Again...mule folks seem to have figured this one out already! A lot of mule riders use a regular cinch for the rear cinch and cinch it as tightly as they do the front). If you do not use the rigging as it is intended to be used, sometimes it doesn't matter. However, for some horses with certain types of build--especially with a prominent wither, sway back or a down hill build...rigging your saddle correctly is a very important part of getting the right saddle fit (most comfortable fit).
Cinch type is important too. I have put the same saddle on the same horse and had completely different experiences depending on what type of cinch material I use. I've had roly poly horses on whom the saddle would slide with a strand type cinch or felt cinch, but when you use a neoprene mesh or "Aire Grip" cinch, the saddle stays put. But, I have other horses that do great in a felt cinch. I'll probably repeat this so much that you'll get sick of hearing it...but BE WILLING TO EXPERIMENT when it comes to cinches and pads. We can't evaluate those particular products without being there in person and riding your horse for you. You've got to figure out what works best for your individual horse. And, if it doesn't work, either wash and resell or hang on to it. Just because it doesn't work on this horse, doesn't mean it won't work on another one of your horses or someone else's horse. That's why there are so many different styles and types of saddle pads and cinches on the market. Which brings us to:
3. Saddle pad: The wrong saddle pad can make a correctly fitted saddle fit wrong. The correct saddle pad can make a saddle that isn't a perfect fit, fit comfortably. Saddle pad fit is AS important as saddle fit for most horses. Unfortunately, saddle pad fit is a heck of a lot harder to evaluate than saddle fit!!
OPEN YOUR MIND AND BE WILLING TO EXPERIMENT. That's what I've learning in my almost forty years of riding horses with not only saddle pad fit, but with training and interacting with horses and horse people. Here's some things that may help you with saddle pad fitting:
a) We can recommend a type of saddle pad when we do a tree fitting. The tree fitting will clearly show if there is an issue that the saddle alone cannot accomodate comfortably on its own. We can give you some guidelines (built up front, extra padding along bars, etc)...but they are guidelines. We would have to be there in person and ride your horse ourselves to be able to evalute if the length, material, etc of the pad works for your horse.
b) Consult a certified equine massage therapist who has established themselves with good training and experience. I have a certified equine massage therapist who has several years of experience and continually takes the time to educate herself further ...and she is a total blessing. I also have a vet in the area who does chiropractic, cranial sacral and other holistic approaches to medicine. You want to be sure the person you consult is experienced and well qualified. I have a list of certified equine massage therapists and have shared the information with customers in the past to help them find qualifed help for evaluating their saddle or pad fit.
c) Experiment. I thought a short backed horse should have a short saddle pad. However, we discovered that while one of my horses did very well in a shorter pad (as long as it was contoured up in the rear)...my other short backed horse got very sore right where the pad ended. He actually did better in a longer pad (34-36") that was soft and provided more support at the rear. Try different pads...and not always the expensive ones (although the more well known brands will resell easier). Also, horse's change over time...a horse that has had a normal back all their life may suddenly have their back drop a couple inches when they age. So, a new pad may be required to accomodate that change and help your horse be more comfortable. Health issues where there is sudden drop in weight may require a different type of padding.
Most horse people could open their own used tack store....and there is nothing wrong with that!! Every time I've cleaned out my tack room and had a garage sale or eBay sale, I usually find later down the line that I need those items back again!! Getting a new horse, riding other folks' horses for them, having a horse change in body due to maturing or aging, etc...you need a well stocked tack room with lots of options if you are going to be a horse owner. The reason there are so many different horse products on the market is because horses are all individuals with different needs and those needs change over time. It's okay to have 3 or 4 saddle pads per horse in your tack room! At different times in your horse's life...you may use all of them!
Another note on saddle pads:
On the cordura saddles, they do not have the structure of an all leather saddle because the skirting is soft. The right saddle pad that has a little extra padding along the bars can help provide that support. We have several of the Abetta saddle pads with this option...and the EquiPedic and Supracor pads (not the Cool Grip, but the regular Supracor Western pad) offer that benefit as well.
4. Saddle Style: Most people that love their horses will sacrifice their desire for a certain "style" or look they may like if it doesn't comfortably fit their horse. However, some won't...and there's not a lot we saddle fitters can do to help with that situation! For a lot of horses, it doesn't matter the style of the saddle, the tree fit is what is important. However, the design of the skirting, the weight, the rigging, etc all affect how a saddle fits and feels to your horse--and on some horses the same tree in a two different styles of saddle makes the difference between comfortable and uncomfortable. For example, a shorter backed/shorter coupled horse usually does better in a saddle with minimal, rounded skirting. Again, if we see a need for a certain saddle style when we do a tree fitting, we will recommend it, unless the customer makes it clear they are not open to suggestions.
5. Your riding ability and your seat: Oh boy...we just went THERE! But, it's true. A poor seat and an unbalanced, uncentered rider can make a saddle that actually fits the horse well-- feel like it doesn't. The proper seat and balance is as important with trail riding as it is with dressage, reining or any other discipline, although there may be slight variations.
Just Google "horse rider seat position" and you will find articles like this:
http://www.articlesbase.com/pets-articles/horse-riding-in-a-balanced-seat-570323.html
http://www.expertvillage.com/video/122165_rider-position-on-a-horse.htm Take these articles with a grain of salt...if you overthink everything it can end up with you riding stiffly, instead of comfortably and naturally.
So, if it is YOU and not the saddle, what do you do to improve your balance and seat??
As I've explained on other places on the website and in my blog, I've been riding since before I can even remember. I've logged literally millions of miles in the saddle on many different horses with lots of bareback riding as well as riding in a saddle. So, for me, a good saddle seat developed because of experience and constant exposure to riding. I didn't know that you could have a poor "seat" or position in a saddle or even what the term "seat" meant. The first time someone told me I had a "good seat", I thought he was getting fresh with me!!
But, I did find with other sports and activities I got into as an adult that I had exceptionally good balance--which was a result of horseback riding all my life . Martial arts, water and snow skiing, aerobics--especially kickboxing and other martial arts related aerobics, skateboarding, etc. So, it stands to reason that if you participate in activites that improve your balance and improve your "core" strength...you will also improve your balance on a horse. Ab workouts are great for this too.
Here's some other ideas:
a) Work with a qualified horseback riding teacher who can help you with your seat, balance and riding habits. (Notice I said "qualified". Too many people are hanging out their shingle as "horse experts" when they are not. Ask for references and check them out.) Even experienced riders can benefit from some lessons and clinics in this area.
b) Ride bareback on a regular basis. Stay safe, of course. Stay in the arena if you aren't comfortable out on the trail. If you aren't comfortable on your horse bareback...borrow someone else's gentler horse and ride bareback. Riding bareback gets rid of the "crutches" that may be causing you to have a poor seat--like the stirrups or horn. It helps develop your core strength, especially if you do some turning and circles. Saddles do have a purpose in keeping both you and your horse comfortable on long rides (and keeping you secure, not to mention being able to get on when out on the trail!), but being able to ride bareback well is a key element to being a good rider.
c) Loosen up. Do things on your horse you might not normally do. Be a kid again. Here's what us horse addicts that grew up horseback know from riding as kids. You can do pretty much anything from off your horse...and it sure beats getting on and off all the time. Get the mail from your mailbox, open and close gates, check out your gutters, stand on your saddle, sit backwards in your saddle, sit sideways, hang left, hang right or hang upside down if you feel like it. Scratch your horse's ears, the top of his tail lay on his neck and hug him. Be safe, of course--and use good judgement about your horse. Try this when your horse is being calm and relaxed and you have nothing pressing to do, so both of you are relaxed. Stop if he starts acting "unrelaxed". He and you may need some training in sidepassing to get the mail or get a gate--so get that training! But the point is...if you are comfortable and relaxed and your horse is comfortable with you...you can usually do just about anything and your horse will stay calm and you will stay in the saddle. And the more you try to do, the better your balance and seat will become--even if you are not sitting in the saddle "properly". I see so many riders sitting stiffly in the saddle, death grip on the reins, butt cheeks clenched, jaw clenched...and I know they and their horse are SO sore by the end of their ride. If you get comfortable leaning this way and that...and know you have balance and aren't going to fall, then just by relaxing and being confident, you develop a better seat.
Also--learn how to fall. Coming off unexpectedly happens to the best riders. Take a tumbling class and learn how to take a fall without hurting yourself. Once you confront your fears, then you will actually relax more and be a better rider. Which means you're more likely to stay on...and you will be a more comfortable rider for your horse.
6. Your horse can change shape over time. For us humans, gaining or losing 3-5 lbs in short time periods is common. For some horses, gaining or losing a couple 100 lbs in a short time period is possible. And the more a horse is exercised, the more tone and muscle he/she builds, so the actual shape can change. So, if you live in places like we do where winters are long and cold (and indoor arenas aren't close) and you do most of your riding summer/fall...your horse can experience quite the body change from spring to the end of fall! For these horses, it's not going to kill them for their saddle to a be a little uncomfortable while getting into shape (kind of like those tight jeans for us after the holiday season). Their rider just needs to be aware.
Myth-Busting the Saddle Fit Myths!
There are some HUGE MYTHS in the horse world...and the folks that buy into this myths do themselves and their horses a huge disservice.
Number one : "A saddle should fit perfectly all by itself, no matter what rigging or pad". Saddles aren't made in heaven. And..God didn't design horses to be ridden in a saddle. We're the ones who designed a saddle and decided that it would be a good idea to use it on a horse. If God had designed horses to be used with saddle, they would have a nice groove around their belly for the cinch to fit in and the "perfect" saddle back.
Horses are ridden in all different states of maturity. Because of breeding, age, illness or past neglect, horses don't all have perfect conformation for a saddle. Horse can be sway backs, short coupled, roach backed (prominent spine), downhill built, and the list goes on and on. So, we have to figure out what equipment works best for each individual horse. And, for some horses, that means the best possible saddle fit with the saddle tree AND the right type of rigging, correct design of saddle, saddle pad, breast collar, rear cinch, other tack...and even the right type of feed and hoof care.
Plus horses need to be ridden correctly and the horse needs to be saddled correctly. A rider with a poor seat and/or lack of balance can make an otherwide good saddle fit fit poorly by the way they sit a saddle. Placing the saddle too far forward or too far backward can make the right saddle fit wrong. Using the wrong type of saddle pad can make the right saddle fit wrong.
Number two: "Sweat marks show you if the saddle is fitting right or not". Sometimes, but not all the time. They are a very inaccurate guide and solely relying on sweat marks to evaluate your saddle fit would be a mistake. Here's why:
1) Not all equines sweat the same, just as not all people sweat the same. Age, health, genetics, how much water they drink, climate, body build, body fat percentage and even personality (nervous vs. calm) and more affect how much a horse sweats and where they sweat. We have an overall healthy 26 year old mare who starts sweating when you place the saddle on her, (before she even moves!)...and her back is completely soaked with sweat no matter how light of riding or what type of pad or saddle we use. Our vet's guess is that it is related to her cycle and being an older female.
2) Scars don't sweat. If a horse has scarring from a previously poor fitting saddle...it is similiar to a callous on a human. If the sweat ducts are plugged, they aren't going to sweat in those areas.
3) Depends on how long you ride. You can ride the same horse in the same pad/saddle and have completely different sweat marks every time you unsaddle if you ride for different lengths of time.
4) Depends on how hard you ride. Same as above. 10-15 minutes at a hard gallop vs. an hour at a slow walk...you may have a totally sweaty back with the first scenario and no sweat at all after your leisurely stroll!
5) Depends on how warm/cold it is. We have to ride our horses in some below freezing temps once in a while during hunting season in the snow. They are usually dry and warm under the saddle and wet everywhere else!
6) This is a BIG one: Depends on the type of saddle pad you use. Design of the saddle pad and the type of material it is made from REALLY affects how a horse sweats and how much sweat actually stays on the horse by the time you are done riding. We carry the Supracor Cool Grip pad, which is made from Supracor's patented honeycomb material which has small holes all the way through and there is no cover, just the exposed honeycomb. When you are done riding, there is no sweat on the horse, because the honeycomb allows air to flow through the pad and drys them off. Your saddle fit can be great, but you aren't going to have ANY sweat marks. Other materials, on the other hand, can make the entire back sweaty because they hold in heat (like a solid neoprene).
7) Poor saddle fit can actually show even sweat marks. Oh, yeah...here's the real kicker. If you have a too small saddle that perches up on your horse and slips around or a too wide saddle that slip/slides around, you can get even sweat marks with those saddles because they don't stay in one place!
Online Store| Order Your Custom Saddle| About Us| Privacy Policy| Store Policies| Home
|
